Tag: stitches


Starting on the Calyxes

Back piece of the Lotus Flower Coat, scattered with green embroidery wool

Once I had my flowers in, I scattered every green thread I had over the pattern piece, and performed a triage.

I ended up with this. It’s not terribly informative, now I look at it, if you aren’t me, but it gives you a sense, perhaps, of a variety of tones and types of thread. Some of them are a little heavy and need to be deployed cautiously, some of them I don’t have much of and need to be careful with for other reasons.

Calyx of the main, white flower on the Lotus Flower Coat

There was much thought needed about the calyxes and stems. Did I want something contrasting, more solid? Did I continue in the same style, maybe tweaking my stitch choice? What about stitch direction? Should I keep to the verticals? Contours? Horizontals?

You can see here what I ended up with.

Close up of the calyx

The two outer leaves have the stitch lines running horizontally, but a little echoing the contour.

The leaf that is curling out towards us has lines following the edges and lines following the central vein, and then I left gaps. I hope that creates a little the sense of the highlights on a strongly shaped leaf.

For the calyx itself, I have used colour and stitch direction to create the sense of the leaves wrapping around one another, and the dark colours of the major shape turn further and merge into the stem.

Yes, working so far, I think.

Stella’s Birds Finished

Design drawing for Stella's Birds

Once I got the design settled for Stella’s Birds, the principle elements remained pretty much unchanged when I got the stitching done. The details, not so much. The drawing shows where I intended to put most of the raised sections and the patterning. Note: intended!

I ended up not filling in any of the bodies of the birds, to leave the effect a little lighter and less blocky. Every time I tried to fill them in, they went grumpy at me, and if nothing else, I’ve learnt to pay attention when my embroidery shouts at me! Furthermore, Stabby has a leading edge, rather than a shoulder, and I simplified the structural details slightly, using the same stitch for all the curlicues, and another same stitch for all the stalks for the leaves.

Finished Embroidery of Stella's Birds. It's strongly textured, in pale fawns, with a little pale pink, cream, and blue. Lots of dramatic stitches!

If you recall, the idea was to create something that might evoke the idea of a light, carved wood, but using a technique reminiscent of Mountmellick Embroidery. It gave me a chance to use some well-beloved stitches, and to rejoice in the textural effects available from those stitches and the choice of threads to stitch them with.

I’m pleased with it.

The half-open flowers

Half-open lotus flower in lilacs and purples

Having got over that momentary wobble about the half open flowers on the Lotus Flower Coat, it was just a matter of carrying on, rows and rows of stitches in a variety of shades and thicknesses of thread.

I’ve kept to the same feather stitch and chain stitch variations for both of them, and I worked small facing sections in lighter shades – borrowed from the fully open flower – to suggest the inside of petals on the other side of the centre.

Half open lotus flower in shades of pink

One of the flowers uses more purple and lilac tones, the other is more pinkish, still trying to create a certain balanced effect without symmetry. I worked a bit on each flower in turn until I was done, making the petals variations on each other, emphases not in quite the same place, patterns rippling slightly as they move across.

I’m very happy with the little channels of fabric showing around the edges of the petals. It’s a way of moving the design more towards a graphic and less towards naturalism – and let’s face it, there’s nothing very naturalistic about my stitchery! It also creates a lightness to the design which I think will be very suitable for a light spring and summer jacket.

The pattern piece of the back of the coat, with the flowers in place

I’m aware that the relatively dense stitching has created ripples in the fabric, but it’s quite loosely woven wool, and I’m pretty confident that once I’ve pressed or steamed it, all will be well.

I have to do the calyxes and the stems first, though. I have a few thoughts about that, but I’m not entirely sure it will work as I hope.

Watch this space, as they say….

Stella’s Birds – Shouty Bird

Starting Shouty with herringbone in the variegated thread

Shouty started off with basic herringbone stitch in the variegated thread. I do like the way the colours are shading here, but to be honest, I really didn’t think hard enough about the next few stages!

That’s been a bit of a theme with Stella’s Birds, there have been false starts and missteps galore, but I don’t mind too much. I am still learning to visualise the elements I want, and I don’t always see them clearly. Once I’ve stitched them, it’s much easier!

A whole selection of not-quite right for Shouty Bird.

I’ve been keeping to the strongly raised leading edge of the wing, and I’m happy with that. But I’m not happy with the bird’s body – it’s either too textured, or not textured enough – neither fish, fowl, nor good red herring, as my Grandad used to say.

Furthermore, the two central lines of the tail are too bright, too white, shouting too loudly, louder than the bird himself. And the crest is untidy and coming undone.

Finished Shouty Bird

So a lot of it came out. I’ve knocked back the tail – a cream pearl cotton, rather than white. That was already better.

Then I went back to the variegated thread for the rest of the bird’s body, and I’ve left it unfilled – in the end, all the birds are mostly just outlined, with the odd point of detail.

The flight feathers are just simple lines of stitching, nothing too fancy, just enough. I like it much better now.

Lotus Flower Coat – Reassured!

The first lotus flower done, all in cream and white and pink line stitches on turquoise tweed.

You may recall that I had a crisis of confidence over the lotus flower. Having decided I actively disliked my second thought, I persevered with version one, and I am Very Happy Indeed with how it has turned out.

So much so that I offer closer photographs below (click through to look at the stitching more closely and see what I’ve done). It is very simple in conception, just rows and rows of stitching in close shades of white/cream with a bit of pink and lilac, and a couple of the threads are variegated. Somehow it looks light, sunny, charming – and not at all like yet another version of the Jacket of Many Stitches!

Floral feather stitch in progress

And I’m making good use of Floral Feather Stitch, which is one of those delights I feel I don’t make adequate use of. I’m making up for it here – it’s one of my “hero” stitches, breaking up the density of stitching and allowing the tweed to show through. At some point I’ll do a little video of this one, as I’ve not seen many people mentioning it – I found it in Edith John’s Creative Stitches, I think.

But in the meantime – it’s Feather Stitch with an Up-&-Down Blanket Stitch beside each feather!

Stella’s Birds – Stabby Bird (part 2)

Crest in woven petals

I wanted to play with some really raised stitches.. The little woven picots on the crest are worked with one end off the fabric, around a pin, which meant that I could give them a twist before stitching them down. It was a bit fiddly – the pearl cotton I was using is a bit on the chunky side, so the needle was too, and the space I had for it was a bit on the small side to be in proportion.

A rather fabulous tail

I’m using pearl cotton and soft cotton in tandem on each of the birds – the soft cotton ended up on the wing. The pearl cotton ended up on the tail: Mountemellick Thorn stitch down the centre, Spanish Knotted Feather Stitch down the sides. That’s another stitch I really enjoy and haven’t made as much use of as I would like to.

This whole panel is full of insufficiently-often-used favourite stitches. It has felt a little like coming home. I need to find ways to do more!

Stabby Bird completed

Tail in place, Stabby Bird only needed beak and legs to be finished.

Oh, and the worm to stab. I used a few short lengths of soft cotton, couched in a crossing pattern. I had intended something much more substantial, but when it came to doing it, it seemed to me that that would be too much, unbalancing the piece. So there is a worm, but not a very emphatic one!

I may reconsider the legs when the whole thing is done – they look just a bit dark in this photo. We’ll see. Tweaking and rebalancing is best at the end, when the whole context gives me a chance to decide more easily and definitively.

Stella’s Birds – Stabby Bird (part one)

Starting with feather stitch
Oh dear, congested stitchs, too heavy, wrong textures, wrong everything!

I started Stabby Bird quite simply with a line of feather stitch in the variegated thread, but then, my goodness, I wandered off the path of success and created a sad and congested mess!

I like the padded buttonhole stitch on the leading edge of the wing, but the tangle of fly stitches and feather stitches on the body , and the trellis stitch on the leg – nope, don’t like any of that. It’s too heavy and blocky, it doesn’t provide any light and shade, it just makes the wrong impression. Out it came!

Stabby's wing and you get to see the breast lighter too.

I added a bit to the leading edge of the wing – feather stitch in the variegated thread. I like that, I think it’s fun.

Floral feather stitch on the wing – that’s a stitch I’m very fond of, but don’t often remember. I must do it more often! The top edge of the wing, and the leg, both in feather stitch in a very fine linen thread. It’s a bit pinkier than I had in mind, but it doesn’t draw attention unpleasantly.

Stella’s Birds – Bitey Bird

Mountmellick Thorn Stitch breast of Bitey Bird

I decided that all the birds would have the variegated thread in them, and that it would be used to outline the body as a starting point. In the case of Bitey Bird, I used a single thread (“Watercolours” is separable into three plies, each of them just like a pearl cotton in behaviour) and started with Mountmellick Thorn Stitch. I did a second row to give Bitey a bib (as it were), and while it looks a little stiff as I concentrate on it, it will probably settle nicely when the whole panel is done.

The rest of Bitey was worked during the MathsJam Gathering, and I took no more photos of work in progress, so cue me desperately trying to remember what I did….

Close up of Bitey Bird, who tends towards blue shades, as he was first finished.

So here we go.. Hungarian Braided Chain for the bird’s head and back – see how it’s not such a thirsty stitch as the Mountmellick Thorn, so the colour changes spread out more? Vandyke stitch to separate the feathers, Cretan Stitch for the crest, Coral stitch in various other places.

I had specific areas I planned to make strongly raised, particularly the leading edges of the wings, so in this case I used Buttonhole Stitch, padded with chain stitch. I do love that redundant but highly ornamental spiral!

A few tweaks on Bitey - darker beak and legs

I finished Bitey – to a first approximation! – ten minutes before the formal part of the MathsJam Gathering ended, knowing, however, that various changes would be needed once I had the whole thing before me.

Not much changed, in the end – the beak darker, and outlined rather than solid, and the legs darker too. And now he looks nicely ornamental and joyfully voracious. Just as he should!

Stella’s Birds – A few false starts

Cording Stitch tendril

As anyone who follows my adventures will know, I always expect to improvise and have any number of false starts.

This is Cording Stitch, which is a classic Mountmellick work stitch, so I wanted to include it. I enjoyed stitching it, but once the whole design was stitched, I had Reservations.

I stared for a while, and then decided that it wasn’t working in the context I was using it, somehow it looked too stiff, and the thread didn’t seem like the right colour.

False start with vine leaf

Another false start was when I started the second vine leaf. I was planning originally to have a riot of different stitches across the whole design. I was happy with the first one, in Palestrina Knot Stitch, but I thought I’d try something else.

Wheatear Stitch is a pretty stitch, and it fits well within the textural theme of the design, but it’s too broad – however hard I tried – to deal with all the wiggles around the edge of the vine leaves. After some thought, I realised that keeping some consistency in the “background” – the branches, the leaves, the tendrils – would enable the birds to shine.

That insight helped me with the tendrils and the stems for the vine leaves, When I was first stitching them, I used different stitches, and different threads, and somehow the piece wasn’t hanging together. When I found a stranded cotton that matched the colour I used for the branches, and used that for the tendrils, and for the stems of the leaves and the grapes, that worked better.

The tendrils are now all in Coral Stitch, and the stems are a Feather Stitch variation. I’ve not been able to track it down, but it’s created a loose and pretty plaited effect that I’m very pleased with!

Stella’s Birds – continuing the basics

Padded satin stitch grapes - padded once sith chain and then with satin stitch

I wanted to raise the level of the grapes as they came forward – remember, part of the inspiration for this piece is carved wood, so I need to be channelling Grinling Gibbons! – so each set as I worked down the panel is more emphatic. Cretan stitch in a slightly greeny fawn at the top, chain stitch spirals in a more pinky fawn at the middle. And double padded satin stitch in a creamy colour at the bottom, light, reflective, strongly raised.

Yes, that works.

All the basics in place - branches, leaves, grapes.

So, now I have my structure in place, it’s worth pausing to look at it.

The branches run through, knitting everything together. The leaves have a little variation in colour, but using the same stitches has kept them quite calm in spite of the strong texture. And the grapes becoming stronger and more emphatic helps to create the sense of a flow through the piece.

Time now to plan the birds a little more.

Planning colours for the birds: starting with a variagated "Watercolours" thread (centre) and picking a pearl cotton and a soft cotton in blue (Bitey), pink (Stabby), and cream (Shouty)

I started with a Caron Collection “Watercolours” that I’ve had for years. That will appear in all of the birds, giving the design some unity. Notionally, of course, in terms of the original inspiration from the novel “Gentian Hill”, it’s the same bird, an analogy for the soul of a person, but I want to play a bit more with pattern and form, so the birds informally known as Bitey, Stabby, and Shouty are quite different from one another. There are pinks, yellows, and blues in the “Watercolours” thread, so I’ve picked a pearl cotton and a soft cotton in each to go together to form the central part of the birds. Other threads to be added if I feel I need them…

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